Period homes have a reputation of being draughty and expensive to run, but it doesn’t always have to be that way. Old, uninsulated solid-wall homes do lose more heat than newly built houses, and outdated, inefficient appliances and fittings use more energy than necessary. However, it is possible to carry out some simple improvements to make your home warmer and reduce bills.

When it comes to more significant works, however, there is much conflicting information around what is the best course of action to take with an old home, especially if it is listed or located in a Conservation Area. The biggest issue is when inappropriate, non-reversible changes are made, or when breathable materials are not specified.

Consider carefully what advice you follow when tackling areas such as heating and insulation, and only work with companies that have experience of dealing with period properties. Where possible, repair rather than replace and check with your local authority before introducing any energy-saving measures that may have a physical or visual impact on your property.

1. Get a smart meter

Monitoring your energy use will help you to establish how well your house performs and where savings need to be made. British Gas can install a smart meter for free for customers.

British Gas smart meter

2. Fill floor gaps

Old floorboards add character to a room, yet it’s astounding how much heat can be lost through the gaps between them: added up together it can be the equivalent of a small window being permanently left open. Simply laying down a large rug in winter can provide extra insulation, but floorboard draughts are also fairly simple to solve with a few interventions.

Sealant strips, such as StopGap or DraughtEx, that can be inserted into gaps, are inexpensive, reversible and not obvious once in place. The Energy Saving Trust estimates that filling gaps can save up to £40 per room, per year.

Fitting draught strips in old floorboards

3. Use LED lighting

Updating light fittings and swapping old-fashioned tungsten bulbs for LEDs, which on average last 25,000 hours, can instantly reduce electricity consumption. While LED lamps can be expensive to buy, savings in electricity bills will usually offset the cost. The lamps now come in all styles, from dimmable spotlights to filament.

4. Check the heating system

An annual service is important to ensure your boiler is working as well as it should, but if it’s more than 10 years old you should consider replacing it with a highly efficient condensing model, which can save you up to £305 per year.

If your radiators aren’t working effectively, check to see if they are colder at the top than at the bottom, as this means there could be trapped air in the system. Bleeding them to solve the problem is a straightforward task that can be done on a DIY basis.

If, however, the top of the radiator is hot and the bottom cold, or generally they aren’t that warm, then there is probably sludge in the system that needs flushing out – a process that usually costs around £500.

Bisque Classic radiator in Amethyst Quartz

 Classic radiator in Amethyst Quartz, £1,252, Bisque

5. Draughtproof doors and windows

Narrow gaps around windows and doors can create uncomfortable draughts as well as rattling noises. Avoid using silicone sealants to fill gaps and instead use draught strips, which can be removed in the future if required. Also look at non-obtrusive solutions for letterboxes and keyholes, and draught excluders.

Sash windows can be an issue due to the necessary gap around the sliding mechanism, but specialist companies such as Ventrolla and The Sash Window Workshop can add a discreet
fin system that will enable them to work effectively without detracting from the overall character.

Garden Trading Compton draught excluder in Carbon Linen

A draught excluder is an inexpensive, unobtrusive solution. Garden Trading’s Compton draught excluder in Carbon Linen is £25

6. Insulate the loft

Around a quarter of a home’s heat is lost through an uninsulated roof space, but this is fairly easy to improve with adequate insulation. The most widely used material is mineral wool (around 27-30cm deep) as, at around £20 per roll, it is very cost-effective.

Although unpleasant to fit, requiring the use of protective clothing, mineral wool has good fire resistance and sound-insulation qualities. Natural materials, such as sheep’s wool quilt or loose cellulose (made from recycled newspaper) are nicer to work with and well suited for use in older houses, but also consider a breathable spray foam insulation such as Icynene.

Second Nature sheep's wool insulation

CosyWool 100mm-thick natural insulation costs from around £6per m2, Second Nature

7. Invest in renewable energy

The most popular renewable energy sources for period properties are solar and wind, but drawing energy from the ground and air are also possibilities. However, while renewables can give considerable savings on your bills, they can also have a negative impact on your home’s appearance, so make sure you have all the facts before investing.

Solar panels installed on listed period house

8. Install an energy-efficient stove

Unlike open fires, which lose most of their heat straight up the chimney, wood-burning stoves are sealed to the room, meaning they use less fuel and radiate the heat throughout the room.

Arada Ecoburn energy saving stove

Ecoburn Plus 5 widescreen multi-fuel stove, 4.9kW output, £1,069, Arada

9. Add secondary glazing

Not only can original window frames be the cause of draughts, but the glazing is often very thin, creating a cold internal surface. As a result, all too often these architectural antiques are replaced for modern double-glazed designs, but as long as the windows are repairable, then it’s best to look at fitting secondary glazing.

High-quality aluminium systems can be colour-matched to the windows, while magnetic systems can be lifted out in the summer. Secondary glazing also cuts down on road noise, and the panels are usually very discreet and can be opened when needed.

Storm bespoke secondary glazing to original Georgian sash window

Bespoke secondary glazing is an ideal solution to reduce energy loss in period homes, including those that are listed. This project is by Storm

10. Add smart heating controls

Thermostatic radiator valves and smart thermostats offer control over individual heating zones, to prevent heat from being wasted.

Drayton's highly responsive TRV4 valve smart controls

The Learning Thermostat (inset), £279 from Nest, can be set wirelessly via a mobile phone to make life easier, while Drayton Controls’ highly responsive A-rated TRV4 valve costs around £19.99

11. Block the chimney

It is estimated that around four per cent of a home’s heat is lost straight up an open chimney, but this can be easily solved by inserting a device that blocks the draught, such as the Chimney Sheep (priced from around £16). Made of a thick layer of felt, it can be inserted up the chimney when the fireplace isn’t in use and simply removed when you want to light a fire. If the fireplace is never used, you could opt for a chimney balloon instead, which inflates to fill the opening, from £19.99.

Inserting a chimney balloon to block draughts

12. Insulate the walls

Much of the heat in an old house is lost through the walls, so improving the insulation can make a big difference to overall heat loss. Condensation can build up on surfaces where there is little or no insulation, but be aware that if you add insulation materials that aren’t breathable and there isn’t adequate ventilation, then moisture can become trapped, leading to even more condensation, mould and possibly damp.

Newer homes with cavity walls can be insulated quite cost effectively, but solid-wall properties aren’t so easy. They can be insulated internally or externally, through lining the walls and then adding lime plaster or render over the top, but this can mean original period details are affected so the process needs to be handled with care. If your home is listed, you will need permission for such work so seek advice from a local conservation officer.

Insulating external walls can create issues with roof overhangs, windowsills and door openings, which will have to be modified to accommodate the thicker walls, as well as rerouting the likes of downpipes and boiler flues.

Lining the inside of the main walls is often preferable, although it can cause a lot of disruption as you’ll need to remove or work around skirting boards, cornicing, radiators, and switches and sockets. The increased thickness of the walls will also result in a marginal loss of room space.

Consider compromising by using internal lining to the main front and side elevations with external cladding to the less visible rear areas or to any previously rendered walls. The use of natural permeable insulation materials, such as wood-fibreboard with a lime render finish, will allow old solid walls to breathe.


Feature Melanie Griffiths and Pippa Blenkinsop; Additional photography Jody Stewart

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