Judith Miller on Vintage scarves

Traditionally worn over the head as protection, the scarf as headgear gained further prominence during World War II when women were called into the workplace to replace the men who were serving in the forces; scarves helped keep hair out of the way of machinery.

The headscarf became an iconic form of head wear during the 1950s, made popular by images of actresses such as Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn stylishly keeping their hair in place as they sped off in a convertible with some handsome young man.

ABOVE (LEFT - RIGHT): 1950s witty dog walking theme, £25-£35; 1950s lucky charm design, with four-leaf clover, key, dog and horseshoe motifs, £20-£30.

At this time, period colours and fashions drew designs away from more traditional and sober styles and patterns: colours became brighter and motifs more light-hearted, and such examples are what we’re concentrating on here. Typical printed imagery included fashionable ladies, often walking their dogs, good luck symbols, polka dots, and – with travel on the increase – souvenir scarves of glamorous destinations.

ABOVE (LEFT - RIGHT): 1950s turquoise silk scarf with poodles, retailed by Littlewoods, £25-£35; 1940s printed fabric, big band pattern, £45-£55.

In recent years, there has been a revival in vintage fashion: the unforgettable character Carrie Bradshaw from Sex and the City made it seem fresh and desirable; meanwhile real-life trendsetters Sienna Miller, Naomi Watts and Kate Moss have shown women that it can be wearable today. As well as covering the whole head, scarves are worn as headbands, around the neck, or knotted on to handbags.

ABOVE (LEFT - RIGHT): 1950s green and white printed silk, harlequin design, £18-£22; 1950s American printed nylon, Vermont tourist souvenir, £25-£35.

In the interiors market, vintage scarves are finding their way into period as well as modern homes, in the form of cushion covers and, of course, framed and displayed on walls. Not only do vintage scarves fit in with the style trend, but the current eco-friendly ethos as they are a way of recycling and reusing old pieces of fabric.

Tips for collectors

• Notable names such as Hermès or Pucci will add value to a scarf, but original pieces are highly sought after and can be hard to find.

• Silk is usually valued higher than cotton or other materials as it would have cost more originally, but it is generally the theme and visual appeal that contributes most towards desirability.

• Look for bright colours and motifs that are typical of the period’s fashions, be they 1950s or 1980s.

• Examine edges carefully for fraying and look out for tiny holes or any damage.

• Although it is best to ask a specialist to clean vintage examples, cotton and man-made fibre scarves can be carefully hand-washed at home.

• To buy, visit your local vintage clothes shop, such as The Girl Can’t Help It! at Alfies Antique Market in London (020 7724 8984).

ABOVE (LEFT - RIGHT): 1950s Italian printed nylon, perfume bottle design, £30-£40; Yellow printed cotton, good luck theme with black cats, 1950s, £20-£30.

WORDS JUDITH MILLER PHOTOGRAPHS THE GIRL CAN’T HELP IT!
Featured in the October 2009 issue of Period Living

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