Judith Miller on costume jewellery

Antique costume jewellery is not just for wearing, it can also be displayed to add sparkle to your home, says Judith Miller.

Over the past ten years costume jewellery has risen dramatically in popularity, and values have risen accordingly. However, while iconic pieces by well-known designers are now commanding prices close to those paid for precious gems, much costume jewellery is still comparatively affordable; and with the great variety of pieces available, there is a look for every taste and occasion. As well as being beautiful fashion accessories, they can also be used in the home, adding glamour to cushions, lampshades and curtain tiebacks. Brooches can look particularly attractive on the dressed dining table, pinned to ribbon around napkins, with the stones twinkling in the candlelight; alternatively, a framed collection will make a colourful and arresting work of art.

ABOVE (left-right): Vivienne Westwood heart-shaped perfume-holder pin, £40-£60; Robert DeMario gilt flower, £10-£15.
BELOW: Rare Butler & Wilson Amy Johnson pin, £100-£150.

Desirable makers include Trifari, Chanel, Christian Dior, Stanley Hagler, Schiaparelli, Miriam Haskell and Joseff of Hollywood, and their names are usually marked on the back of their pieces. Trifari’s origins lay in a company founded by Italian émigré Gustavo Trifari in New York in 1910; designer Alfred Philippe joined in 1930, and his designs are among the most collectable. In the 1930s Trifari designed jewellery for Broadway musicals, as well as for film and theatre stars, which cemented its success; more than 70 years on, it continues to produce innovative designs. Style and visual appeal are very important when starting your collection: a great design with the ‘sparkle’ factor is a must, even without a renowned maker’s name. The way the stones are set helps indicate a piece’s quality: the best examples are held in place with metal prongs, with work done by hand; much costume jewellery has threedimensional effects that may be hand-wired onto the frame.

ABOVE (l-r): Trifari trio of fish, £70- £100; Boucher holly wreath earrings, £40-£50.
BELOW: Robert necklace and earrings, £100-£150.

Tips for collectors:

• Copies are becoming more common, particularly at the upper end of the market, so learn to recognise marks and the quality of materials. During the 1930s and 1940s, many pieces were made from solid silver, sometimes plated with gold, and these are usually marked ‘Sterling’ to the reverse.
• The quality, colour and size of stones are important to value: look for chunky ‘baroque’ faux pearls, and Murano or Czech glass beads.
• Missing stones will reduce value: although they can be replaced, it is often hard to find an exact match of size or colour. The beads and faux pearls used by some designers such as Miriam Haskell are even more difficult to find, as they were exclusive designs.
• You can pick up unnamed and/or contemporary costume jewellery at most markets and fairs, and even charity shops. For period pieces visit cristobal.co.uk.

FEATURE JUDITH MILLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANTIQUES EMPORIUM, CRISTOBAL
Featured in the August 2010 issue of Period Living

Buy Judith Miller’s Antiques Handbook & Price Guide 2012-2013