Reviving wooden doors

Interior doors take a bashing over the years and if some of yours are a case in point, then follow Helaine Clare’s eight-point plan to deep clean the wood, revive the natural sheen and remove tarnish.

When I bought my 16th-century farmhouse in Norfolk way back in 1975, it stood forlorn amid an acre of thistles and nettles and had been unoccupied for 28 years – apart from pigs. All the internal doors had been taken down and reused to build an enclosure to keep the animals contained in the living room, and barricades to stop them going upstairs!

Once the swines were ousted and what they left behind barrowed out, I discovered the doors were gnawed and rotted beyond salvation. Dutch elm disease was decimating the landscape, but a stricken tree provided the wood for a new set of doors.

The doors have suffered through the years and born witness to grimy building work, the sticky fingers of two generations of children and dogs and cats too many to mention. High time for the latest bout of love and attention preceded by the usual thorough clean.

You will need...

Wax and polish remover
Steel wool
Cotton cloths
Dowelling, saw
Glue
Mallet for making plugs to cover screw heads
Wood filler
Wax filler stick
Filling knife
Finishing oil
Brass and copper cleaner
Brass and copper polish
Pair of hand-wrought tee hinges

Note: Always try new cleaning or maintenance products on an inconspicuous area first to test colour, compatibility and end result.


1. Deep clean wood: Wearing gloves pour some wax and polish remover into a bowl. Take a pad of fine steel wool to swab the surface with the solution working with the grain. Wait for a few minutes and while the wood is wet use a clean, cotton lint-free cloth to wipe away the dirt and grease. Keep turning the cloth to reveal a clean face so that you wipe the dirt off rather than rub it in. Wait for 24 hours to allow the wood to dry before applying finishing oil.	2. Conceal screws: The screws used in the construction of this door were counter-bored and the heads should have been concealed with plugs of wood. The holes are deep, so for a neat finish we are using wooden dowelling to make plugs. Choose a short length of a slightly wider diameter. Clamp it safely in a workbench or a G-clamp. Taper it to fit using a plane, file or coarse glasspaper. Ensure the hole is clean and apply glue liberally. Knock in firmly with a mallet.

3. Finish carefully: Wipe away excess glue before it dries – a damp washing up sponge is ideal. Leave the glue to set completely. The peg can now be sawn off flush with the surface. A fine-toothed handsaw with its flexible unsupported blade is ideal for this job. Use the other hand to hold the blade level. Protect the door by placing pieces of thin card beneath the saw teeth. Rub smooth with a piece of abrasive paper wrapped around the end of a pencil.	4. Fill holes: Apply wood filler to holes, cracks and gaps. Always replace the lid firmly on the can. If it’s a bit dry a little water can be mixed in to make it more pliable. Wax filler sticks are useful for repairing surface damage. They are available in a range of different shades to match the wood you are working with. Push firmly in with a filling knife. The wax becomes more workable if kept at room temperature for a few hours before use.

5. Restore sheen: Using a brush, cloth or plastic scouring pad, apply an initial coat of finishing oil to nourish and enhance the natural colour of the wood. Allow to penetrate for 10 minutes then wipe off any surplus oil with a clean cotton cloth. Apply further coats at intervals at no less than 5 hours. The more coats applied the higher the sheen and the more durable the finish. Always wipe off excess oil. If allowed to remain it will become sticky and attract dirt.	6. Replace hinges: We have taken off the cheap, machine-made hinges that had become distorted and rusty. They are being superseded by a pair of handcrafted tee hinges. Fix onto the door first using the original fixing holes if possible. Alternatively hold firmly in place and locate new holes with a bradawl. Screw to door frame fixing with just one screw in each hinge. Open and close the door a few times. Make any adjustments and drive in the remaining screws.

7. Remove tarnish: This brass latch is heavily tarnished having endured many years of neglect. Apply masking tape to protect the door from marking. Rub the metal with a soft cotton cloth soaked in brass and copper cleaner to remove all traces of tarnish. If it’s proving very stubborn pour some cleaning fluid in a bowl and use a pad of very fine steel wool (0000 grade) to gently rub away the discolouration. Rinse well and dry with a soft cotton cloth.	8. Polish up: Apply brass and copper polish with a clean cotton cloth, rubbing vigorously. Wait a few minutes and buff to a shine. To keep brass looking good for longer rub the cleaned and polished latch with a good quality wax polish. Make a card template of the latch and keep it with your polish – that way you can polish the latch without having to worry about spoiling the door. An occasional application of polish on the hinges will keep rust at bay too.