Front door spruce-up
For an air of warmth and welcome it’s time to give your front door a gentle makeover following Helaine Clare’s easy eight-step guide.
This natural hardwood door was looking a little shabby and tired. The cracks and flaking paint on the surround didn’t do justice to the fine architectural detailing on the 18th-century door case. The letterbox and door knocker were looking tarnished and the bell push was made of unattractive and unsympathetic plastic.
Preparation is the key for this DIY job. Once you have scraped off the unsound finish, filled the cracks, dealt with the gaps and banished the grime, a few more hours of waxing, rubbing and brushing will give your door a new lease of life.
While you’re sprucing things up, it’s a good time to deal with other minor irritations before they become major annoyances and potentially large-scale problems. Damp days and misty nights can cause wood to swell and doors and windows that have always been well behaved start to be troublesome. Don’t tolerate sticking doors; constant heaving and forcing a door to shut may weaken its structure and distort the frame over time.
If you are unsure where the problem lies rub some chalk or wax crayon around the edge of the door – open and close the door a few times and note where the marking has been transferred onto the frame.
You will need...
- Gloves
- Dust mask
- Eye protection
- Paint stripper, brush and spatula
- Brass brush
- Filling knife
- Lime mortar
- Limewash
- Brass cleaner
- Masking tape
- Wax and polish remover
- Pure tung oil
- Steel wool
- Cotton cloths
- Flexible frame sealant
- New bell push (if necessary)
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1. Revive the front doorstep: Years ago the doorstep was coated with red cardinal paint, which still lingers in some areas. Rather than use a general-purpose stripper, I like a product formulated to remove a specific finish, such as NB- 510 from Strippers Paint Removers. Trial pots are £8 (including P&P) if you want to experiment first. |
2. Repair the door case: Remove all loose and flaking paint from the door case. A brass brush can be useful for this job but a steel brush will scratch soft stone. A steel scraper can be used with care – hold at a slight angle to avoid digging into the stone. Fill cracks and gaps with lime mortar* (sand and lime putty mixed). |
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3. Apply limewash to the stone: Modern masonry paint prevents old stone ‘breathing’. Instead I used ready-prepared limewash, spraying the stone with water before applying. Paint on three to four further coats and allow a day in between for limewash to dry. Wear protective goggles as limewash splashes can damage eyes. |
4. Polish brass door furniture: Protect the wood by fixing masking tape around the edges of the letter plate. Tarnished metal can be cleaned using Liberon’s Brass & Copper Cleaner rubbed lightly with very fine steel wool. Rinse and dry. Maintain shine with Liberon’s Brass & Copper Polish. Finally, protect with a film of clear wax polish. |
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5. Clean off grime and old wax: Get rid of old wax finishes, dirt and grime from the wood door. Soak a wad of fine steel wool (0000) in Liberon Wax & Polish Remover and gently wash the wood following the grain. Wait a few minutes and wipe away the dirt with a clean cotton cloth. Keep changing the face of the cloth so you take the dirt off. |
6. Put on new bell push: Remove plastic bell push and replace with one suitable for a period house. We found a Georgianstyle brass model at Dartington Steel Design. Electric doorbell systems work off either a mains or battery power source. If yours is run from mains electricity use an electrician to carry out modifications. |
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7. Condition the door with oil: Apply Liberon Pure Tung Oil with a brush or cloth. Allow the oil to penetrate and wipe off any remaining on the surface after 30 minutes (surplus oil will turn sticky). For oak doors and exposed wood apply four coats allowing 24 hours in between. Rub gently with fine steel wool in between applications. |
8. Seal gaps against the rain: First, ensure surfaces are clean, dry and non-greasy. Place the sealant nozzle against the gap between woodwork and masonry ensuring it touches both sides. Apply by squeezing trigger and running cartridge slowly along the gap. If necessary, while sealant is still wet, smooth finish with a wet spatula. |
* Find more advice on how to apply lime mortar from Marianne Suhr.
Find out how to transform a wooden door with lime wax...
WORDS HELAINE CLAIR PHOTOGRAPHS COLIN LEFTLEY STYLING GEORGINA WEST AT PRACTICALLY PERFECT INTERIORS (01379 788836; practicallyperfectinteriors.com)
Featured in the December 2009 issue of Period Living











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