Fireplace first aid
Sprucing up an old cast-iron fireplace is a relatively easy job as Helaine Clare shows in her 8-step rescue remedy. And if you don’t have one, some detective work might prove otherwise.
There's nothing quite as cosy on a cold winter’s night as snuggling down in front of a blazing open fire, while outside the wind roars and the rain lashes against the windowpanes.
With the increased costs of fuel many people are forgoing their central heating in favour of donning thermals and an extra jumper, and just heating one room with an open fire. But if your living room doesn’t have a fireplace don’t be downhearted – it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t one. Most pre-1950s houses were once heated by coal or wood fires. Fashions in home interiors come and go and during the 1970s, in particular, many period features were ‘vandalised’ at the hands of modernisers.
If you suspect your fireplace has become a fashion victim, do a bit of detective work. A rectangle of mortar sited at the edge of floorboards may be the foundation of the original hearth. A hollow-sounding wall, where the opening has been boarded up, and unexplained wall ventilators are all good indicators. Inspect the roof. Is there a chimney or has it been terminated or blocked off? If there’s a flue to a working chimney it will be possible to have a fireplace reinstated if yours has been removed.
If you think you have discovered a blocked-off fireplace, contain your excitement while you cover everywhere with dust sheets – sudden falls of soot and cascades of birds’ nests can be an ugly sight on a favourite rug. Then try prising off the board or taking out a brick at a height of 30cm. Hold a lighted taper in front of the hole – if the flame is pulled towards it then the chimney is open at the top.
Excavate the opening and look for a fireback – the chances are you will find a perfect cast-iron fireplace. Before going any further have your chimney cleaned and checked for safety by a qualified chimney sweep – contact the National Association of Chimney Sweeps on 01785 811732 or visit the website at chimneyworks.co.uk.
You will need...
- New firebricks
- Fire cement
- Filling knife or trowel
- Steel brush
- Methylated spirits and cloth
- Traditional black grate polish and brushes
- Scrubbing brush
- Plastic scouring pad
- Work gloves
- Dust mask
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1 Firebricks can be repaired in situ but badly decayed ones will need to be replaced. This one disintegrated as it was being lifted out. Replacements can be bought from hardware stores and fireplace specialists. Non-standard ones can sometimes be picked up from architectural salvage yards. If your search is fruitless you could consider casting one yourself using fire cement. |
2 It’s advisable to remove the grate before fitting the new firebrick, but this one wouldn’t budge. Thoroughly clear away all the soot and ash (a vacuum cleaner is best for this). Bed in the new firebrick with fire cement, using a trowel or filling knife. Keep the blade clean and cement-free, otherwise it will pull away the freshly applied cement. |
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3 There is a small crack in the fireback that can easily be repaired with fire cement. Use a steel brush to get into the crevice and remove all traces of soot and ash. Press the cement firmly into the crack. Always refer to manufacturer’s recommendations – sometimes heat must be applied immediately. Other products should be left to cure for several days before lighting a fire. |
4 Heavy deposits of rust on the cast-iron insert should be removed with a steel brush. Sometimes firehoods or canopies are made of steel – a steel brush may cause unsightly scratches. Instead, clean rusty areas with steel wool. Soot and dirt can be rubbed off using a cotton cloth and methylated spirits. Turn the cloth frequently to expose a clean face. |
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5 Sparingly and evenly, apply traditional black grate polish with a brush. To avoid spoiling the wall, hold a piece of card against the edge of the fire surround as you apply the paste. Black grate polish, applicator brushes and polishing brushes are readily available from hardware shops. Make sure you wear gloves and keep the room well ventilated. |
6 Allow to dry for an hour or so. If you would prefer a shiny finish, polish with a brush (the clever design of this brush guards against bruised knuckles). For extra shine buff with a soft cotton cloth. Be aware that this polish can rub off on clothing and furnishings. For a more permanent and durable finish opt for stove paint, which is available in a matt or silk finish. |
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7 Luckily these tiles are in excellent condition. We used warm water and mild detergent to clean away the accumulated grime. A plastic scouring pad can be used to remove stubborn tar deposits without damaging the glaze. Wipe the tiles dry, then polish with a soft cotton cloth. |
8 We cleaned the hearth tiles with a scrubbing brush and warm soapy water. Some tiles are cracked where fire tongs have been carelessly dropped, but this is all part of the house’s history. It’s not necessary to replace cracked tiles unless they are a safety hazard. Candle wax can be scraped off the hearth with a sharp scraper held at an angle to avoid scratching the tiles. |
Find out more about period fireplaces...
FEATURE HELAINE CLAIR STYLING AND ACCESSORIES GEORGINA WEST AT PRACTICALLY PERFECT INTERIORS (01379 788836; practicallyperfectinteriors.com) PHOTOGRAPHS COLIN LEFTLEY
Featured in the February 2009 issue of Period Living
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