How to put up a shelf
Putting up a shelf in a period house can present many challenges. In her step-by- step guide, Helaine Clare reveals some simple ways around the problems.
When I meet new people and they ask me what I do for a living, quite often they will confess that they are hopeless at DIY and can’t even manage to put up a shelf. In fact, fixing things on to old walls in particular is not a straightforward job and can present a challenge.
In a timber-framed house it’s easy enough to fix items to the studs (or wooden uprights) using screws driven straight into the wood. Generally speaking outside walls are solid and built of bricks, stone or blockwork, and to make a secure fixing screws are inserted into plastic wall plugs.
Internal or partition walls are less substantial – often a basic wooden framework of studs faced with lathe and plaster. A secure fixing is best achieved by locating the wooden studs. These are simple to find on a plasterboarded wall by merely working your way across and knocking as you go until the hollow sound changes.
Locating studs behind lathe and plaster is more difficult as there is no discernible sound difference, so examine the surface to see whether there is evidence of previous fixings. If all else fails draw a line for the intended shelf and drill tiny holes through the plaster at one-inch intervals until you discover a stud. This will lead you to the remaining studs, as they are usually situated 16 inches apart.
In a soft, crumbly brick wall a strong fixing can be made by driving wooden plugs into the vertical mortar joints. Difficulties can arise when you drill straight into brick and the hole quickly becomes too big; in this case always use a drill bit at least one size too small and avoid selecting ‘hammer action’.
If the wall is unstable and it crumbles away to leave a big hole, take an offcut of wood or a short piece of wide dowelling and knock some nails in so it will tie into the wall. Dampen the wall and embed the fixing with plaster or filler.
You will need...
To put up the shelf:
- Shelf
- Saw
- Shelf brackets
- Chisel
- Dowel
- Steel measuring tape
- Spirit level
- Try square
- Drill and bits
- Wall plugs
- Screwdriver
- Bradawl
To lime the shelf:
- Wire brush
- Lime wax
- ’0000’ grade steel wool
- Hessian
Putting up the shelf
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1. Measure up wood for the shelf: New wood can sometimes look out of place in a period house so source a reclaimed floorboard offcut instead. Measure the length of the shelf using a try square to ensure a ‘square’ cut. Here the end of the shelf has been fashioned to reflect the curve of the cupboard beneath; taking the corner off makes it less hazardous too. |
2. Smarten surface with a limed finish: To help tie the shelf in with the cupboard below apply a limed finish. First, open the grain of the wood by working a wire brush along the grain. With a pad of ‘0000’ grade steel wool rub lime wax into the wood. Wait for a few minutes then take a piece of hessian and rub across the grain to take off the excess wax. |
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3. Fixing a shelf into old brick: Wooden plugs create a strong fixing into old brick. Saw a one-inch-square piece of wood at least six inches long, cutting along the grain, and taper the first few inches with a chisel. The irregular edges will help to grip the masonry. Hammer the plug into a vertical mortar joint and saw flush with the wall. Make good the plaster. |
4. Check for hidden wiring and pipes: Once the shelf has been positioned, check for water pipes or electrical cables behind the wall – look both sides if it’s an internal wall. Wiring usually runs vertically from switches and sockets and horizontally between sockets but can also run diagonally. Use a cable and pipe detector (try tooled-up.com). |
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5. Position shelf and ensure it is level: Hold the shelf in your chosen position against the wall and check the alignment with a spirit level. Draw a pencil line beneath the shelf. Next, hold the spirit level vertically and mark the position for the brackets. For good support these should go about a fifth of the distance from each end. |
6. Gauge brackets and mark for drill holes: Position the first bracket and mark crosses where screws are to go. Use a bradawl to make indentations. Hold the wall plug beside the drill bit and make a depth gauge to ensure the hole is correct. Apply masking tape the length of the plug plus 5mm. Drill hole, rake out debris and tap in the plug. Screw bracket to the wall. |
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7. Position and mark second bracket: Hold second bracket up to support the shelf and check alignment with a spirit level. If the ceiling or floors are out of true you may need to adjust this by eye rather than using the level. Ask a friend to hold the shelf up while you stand back and decide what looks best. Mark the position of the second bracket and fix. |
8. Fix shelf firmly to brackets: Once the second bracket is in place fix the shelf to the brackets, by driving screws through the bracket holes into the wood. This is often something people omit but if the shelf is accidentally knocked it can come crashing down. It also holds the wood firmly and it will be less likely to warp and twist. |
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WORDS HELAINE CLARE PHOTOGRAPHS COLIN LEFTLEY; KNOTTED SHELF BRACKETS IN BEESWAX FINISH FROM JIM LAWRENCE TRADITIONAL IRONWORKS LTD (01473 828176; jim-lawrence.co.uk)
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